Sultanate of Oman

Much like myself, my chemistry colleague Jack is an avid traveller. Last year he visited Oman not once, but twice since he liked the country so much. Whenever I told him about the impressive reptile diversity in that country, he couldn't really believe me as he rarely sees any. Especially snakes are something he never saw in the wild and he invited me to travel together to Oman. Half jokingly I said how much fun it would be to do that trip together with a bunch of students. That thought lingered in our minds and we started making a proposal for our school board. We didn't really expect to receive a positive answer to travel with students to such an exotic and far away location. But as you can suspect, we received exactly the opposite kind of answer and our headmaster gave us green lights to continue planning the trip. We made an elaborate day-to-day programme where students would experience all the highlights of Oman. Not only nature, but also culture, history and even an exchange programme at a local highschool. This was not only well received by our school board, but also by the students. While Jack and I figured we had space for 12 students at most, 98 students in total applied for joining this trip! An arduous process of selecting students based on their application letters followed and we selected our team of 12 students.

24th/25th of October 2024

We had a late flight from Schiphol airport and overnight we flew to Abu Dhabi. There we had a smooth connection to Muscat and before we knew it we were trying to jam our luggage into two large SUV's. A long drive towards Haima followed, but we had a stop in Nizwa for a warm lunch. 

26th of October 2024

We got up rather early because another long drive was waiting for us. In a nearby supermarket we got some breakfast before heading south. We had a few short stops along the way and on a windswept beach we spotted the first reptiles such as Carter's Rock Geckos (Pristurus carteri), Masirah Fringe-toed Lizards (Acanthodactylus masirae) and a Dhofar Rock Agama (Pseudotrapelus dhofarensis). Late in the afternoon we finally arrived at Khor Senaq where we would spend the night. Here we crossed the khor to reach the beach. The waters were very enjoyable with high temperatures, high waves and a lot of seaweed to whip Robin with. Sadly we didn't see any dolphins to play with. Over the portable stoves we prepared an easy meal. One team went for a late night swim while another team went herping into the wadi. There wasn't a whole lot of activity, although both Dhofar Toads (Duttaphrynus dhufarensis) and Al-Kiyumi's Geckos (Hemidactylus alkiyumii) were a common sight. We also saw Red Fox (Vulpes vulpes) and Golden Spiny Mouse (Acomys russatus). When we returned to camp Tijmen and I had a last dip in the warm waters of the khor before falling asleep under the stars and between the palm trees. 

27th of October 2024

After an easy breakfast at the camp it was time to drive further south. A very exciting stretch of road followed where we readily saw Yemeni Spiny-tailed Lizards (Uromastyx benti) and even the first Hadramaut Agamas (Acanthocercus adramitanus) and Dhofar Rock Agamas (Pseudotrapelus dhofarensis). We even saw two Rock Hyrax (Procavia capensis). However, both reptiles and mammals were very shy, so photography was incredibly tricky. One team was most keen on swimming, so they drove ahead to Wadi Darbat. One team stayed behind to drive around a bit more for agamas. Good call, as with one car we were more flexible and it didn't take long before we got what we wanted: some nice sightings and pictures of the spiny-tailed lizards. Incredible animals which could star in the adult film industry according to some people in the car. In the afternoon we also took it easy and relaxed a bit in the beautiful pools and ponds of the wadi. When the sun started to get less intense I did a small round together with Willem and Luc. We saw the first Oriental Garden Lizards (Calotes versicolor), many Guweira Semaphore Geckos (Pristurus guweirensis), some Tessellated Skinks (Trachylepis tessellata) and finally also a massive Short-necked Skink (Trachylepis brevicollis). Walking around here was a massive delight and around every corner we saw a cool invertebrate, reptile or bird. Apart from the reptiles, we saw impressive Red-legged Golden Orb-web Spiders (Trichonephila sumptuosa) and interesting birds such as Grey-headed Kingfisher (Halcyon leucocephala) and Yellow-bellied Fruit Pigeon (Treron waalia). Cooking on the portable stoves took awhile, but afterwards we did a small round with the entire team to search successfully for our first Arabian Chameleons (Chamaeleo arabicus). It wasn't time for bed quite yet as one team still went for some roadcruising. For reptiles this wasn't the most productive, but we immediately saw several Arabian Eagle-owls (Bubo milesi) and five different Arabian Wolfs (Canis lupus arabs). However, the highlight came when we tried to find our way back to the camp. In the headlights of the car we saw a Honey Badger (Mellivora capensis pumilio) making its way across the road! What an ending of the evening to spot this rare mammal. Sadly making pictures was a little difficult as all animals were very shy. 

28th of October 2024

After a short morning round looking for cobras, we headed further inland towards Jabal Samhan. The highest peak of the Dhofar Mountains and also one of the last refuges for rare species such as Arabian Leopard and Dragon Blood Trees (Dracaena serrulata dhofarica). While a couple of Verreaux's Eagles (Aquila verreauxii) was soaring overhead, we hiked to one of the last places where several of these ancient trees still grow. A very special place!  In the afternoon we drove into the city of Salalah for lunch and grocery shopping. At a very big and luxurious villa just out of town we found a perfect place to sleep for the next three nights. After dinner, one team drove into the city and my team of course drove into the mountains again. At a small, but dry wadi we tried our luck for snakes. We saw more Arabian Chameleons (Chamaeleo arabicus) and geckos such as Yellow-bellied House Geckos (Hemidactylus flaviviridis). Also mammals made an appearance and we saw a Red Fox (Vulpes vulpes), an Arabian Shrew (Crocidura arabica) and the trees were full of Egyptian Fruit Bats (Rousettus aegyptiacus). On a densely vegetated slope we finally got lucky and I spotted an Arabian Burrowing Asp (Atractaspis andersonii) on the crawl. Finally a snake! Our dry spell was broken and we were all very excited.

29th of October 2024

In the morning we visited the Sultan Qaboos Mosque in Salalah. A very impressive structure where we were given a guided tour by our new friend Achmed. It was very interesting for both students and teachers to learn more about islam and Omani customs. Achmed also kindly invited us for a traditional lunch in a nearby restaurant. The food was amazing and with full bellies we headed towards Fazayat. On a stunning empty beach we found a great place to spend the afternoon. We ate some watermelon, tried to ride the strong waves and searched in vain for dolphins to have fun with. I also had a little stroll behind the beach where I saw some Guweira Semaphore Geckos (Pristurus guweirensis) and another huge Short-necked Skink (Trachylepis brevicollis). At the last light of the day we explored the blowholes near Salalah. While one team drove into the city, another team stayed behind to do some herping in the vicinity of the blowholes. Even after dark, it was still incredibly hot and humid. Luckily, we saw a small Tarantula (Ischnocolus jickelii) and also found our main target for this area really easy as many Ghost Geckos (Hemidactylus lemurinus) were out foraging. No more snakes were to be found though, but a late dinner at the McDonalds provided solace.

30th of October 2024

A very busy day ahead, but also with some unforeseen circumstances. We got up before sunrise to visit a camel farm. However, Jack's car didn't want to start. Help could not be arranged so quickly so we decided that my car would drive to the camel farm and we would see what would happen later on. The camel farm was great fun. We milked the camels, drank camel milk and the camels also provided us with some great photo opportunities. As the other team was still waiting for the car to be repaired, my team drove towards a beautiful spring. Here we saw some great birds such as African Paradise Flycatchers (Terpsiphone viridis) and many butterfly species. We then visited two locations at the coast. At the first stop we inspected some old wells and saw several Red Sea House Geckos (Hemidactylus robustus). At the second stop we spotted a Dhofar Rock Agama (Pseudotrapelus dhofarensis) and I flipped a Wadi Racer (Platyceps rhodorachis) underneath a big slab of concrete. At the sink hole of Tawi Atair we linked up with the other team who got a replacement for their car. However, their new car was much smaller and once we would start traveling north again, this would cause problems as the luggage would never fit in that car. A problem for later, and at the sinkhole we enjoyed the impressive scenery and saw many Oriental Garden Lizards (Calotes versicolor). At Wadi Hanna we enjoyed the beautiful forested surroundings and most of the group had a swim. Tijmen, Robin and I couldn't sit still and we explored the forest a bit more. We found a Dhofar Fan-footed Gecko (Ptyodactylus dhofarensis) and a Middle Eastern Giant Millipede (Archispirostreptus syriacus). Also the Baobabs (Adansonia digitata) at this location were mighty impressive. Shortly before sunset we drove towards the beach where we did some camel riding, drank a cup of tea and made new plans for the night. One car drove into the city again, and unsurprisingly my car drove into the beautiful wadi I had visited with my students earlier this day. We saw Dhofar Coastal Gecko (Hemidactylus paucituberculatus), Arabian Chameleon (Chamaeleo arabicus) and I found a small Nurse's Blind Snake (Myriopholis nursii) on the path. The main attraction were the massive  Dhofar Whip Spiders (Phrynichus dhofarensis) hiding in rocky cracks. Afterwards we did some roadcruising but only found a DOR Puff Adder sadly. 

31st of October 2024

One of the highlights of our trip was the visit to a local highschool. I first dropped off our four girls at a local highschool for girls, after which I joined the boys at another school. At both schools we had a busy schedule full of presentations about Dutch and Omani cultures and about the reptiles of Oman, but also plenty of time to simply interact and learn from each other. The students thoroughly enjoyed the interaction with their Omani peers and were overwhelmed by the warm welcome they received at both schools. We were showered with gifts and a bit later than we intended, we were on our way into the wilderness again. A nice surprise came at a shopping mall as the car rental company was waiting for us and had fixed our bigger car. That was very welcome, especially for the long drive that would await us the next day! At a beautiful wadi not that far from Salalah we hiked towards a large swimhole. It was a hot and sweaty hike, but the water at the end of the hike was a delight. In darkness we hiked back to the cars and made camp in the dry wadi. There we prepared a meal over the portable stoves (wet-flavoured noodles again) and after dinner I ventured into the mountains again with a small group of students. It didn't take us long until we found some very interesting species such as an Arabian Baboon Spider (Monocentropus longimanus) and another Arabian Burrowing Asp (Atractaspis andersonii). We also found Dhofar Toad (Duttaphrynus dhufarensis), Hadramaut Agama (Acanthocercus adramitanus), Oriental Garden Lizard (Calotes versicolor), Arabian Chameleon (Chamaeleo arabicus) and Dhofar Fan-footed Gecko (Ptyodactylus dhofarensis). But the night had more surprises in store for us. Just when we wanted to turn back to camp, Tijmen spotted eyeshine in the trees. With some patience we could observe an Arabian Small-spotted Genet (Genetta genetta dongolana) really close while it was cleaning itself in a tree. Super nice! Then we were headed back to camp again when I heard some shouting behind me. It was Mila who shouted "Snake, snake snake, snake"! I sprinted back and the snake turned out to be a Puff Adder (Bitis arietans) on the move between some big rocks. Mila was doubting if she would join tonight as she was pretty tired, but we were all very happy that she did! What a night!

1st of November 2024

The night was surprisingly chilly, but we all slept very well in our tents. We had a quick breakfast and after breaking down the tents and packing the bags we hiked back to the large swimhole again. This time we had better views of Hadramaut Agama (Acanthocercus adramitanus), although sadly none of them were in breeding colouration. The swim was again such a delight and the entire group thoroughly enjoyed jumping from the cliffs into the deep blue below. Then it was time to head back to the cars as a long drive was awaiting us. Along the way we had a short stop for a Desert Rose (Adenium obesum) in bloom and we finally managed to photograph the Abdim's Storks (Ciconia abdimii). We saw a huge flock on the previous two days, but since it was right next to the highway we couldn't safely stop. Now there was less traffic (and sadly also less storks), so we finally managed a picture. Papa was happy again. At Wadi Dawkah we admired the Frankincense Trees (Boswellia sacra) and in Thumrait we had a warm lunch. Our final destination of the day would be Haima, so we still had many hours of driving ahead of us. One car already drove ahead, whereas my car still had a short drive in the desert outside of Thumrait. Very quickly we saw several Egyptian Spiny-tailed Lizards (Uromastyx aegyptia microlepis) which were all very shy. Also some interesting birds were sighted, such as Greater Hoopoe-larks (Alaemon alaudipes) and a small flock of Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse (Pterocles exustus). The latter were sadly spooked as someone was leaning a bit too hard on the steering wheel which then started to make a noise... Probably a sign to hit the road towards Haima. Luckily the students in my car were full of energy to keep my eyes open during the hellish drive. In Haima we were too tired to do little more than eating, showering and sleeping. 

2nd of November 2024

We granted ourselves a bit more sleep than usual before starting another long drive to complete the track back north. We had a stop in Nizwa for lunch and supplies before driving into the mountains. At this stage of the trip, everybody was very tired. Upon arrival in the mountains, some students could only be woken up by screaming there was an Imagine Dragons concert in the wadi. We attempted to reach a campsite deep in a beautiful wadi, but the road was completely washed away after barely more than a kilometer. So we had to navigate the cars backwards over the narrow road and make a new plan. Jack and his group of students went camping near the peak of the Jabal Shams to do the balcony walkway the next day. My group went into the wadi on foot to search for animals and also sleep there. We immediately saw many Arabian Toads (Sclerophrys arabica) hopping around everywhere. While searching the rocky areas of the wadi we again weren't lucky with Saw-scaled Vipers, but geckos such as Flat-headed Leaf-toed Gecko (Asaccus platyrhynchus) and Orlov's Fan-footed Gecko (Ptyodactylus orlovi) provided a very nice distraction. Despite the temperature dropping quite a bit, I had a refreshing dip in the stream before falling asleep with many toads calling next to my tent. The best sound to fall asleep with!

3rd of November 2024

While we all slept wonderful, we did have an early morning with the muezzin calling for prayer and several roosters signaling the start of the day. Although some of the group would have liked to sleep a bit more, it was time to explore the wadi in daylight. There was surprisingly little reptile activity which seemed odd given the great conditions and habitat. We saw a few Rock Semaphore Geckos (Pristurus rupestris) dart away, but little else. While the students settled near a big pool for a refreshing dip I walked a bit deeper into the canyon and suddenly stood face-to-face with the species I was most hoping to see; a big and beautiful Jayakar's Lizard (Omanosaura jayakari). The animal darted away after a single picture and after a long wait it did come out again, but only for a few seconds. I walked back to get the students, but when we returned to the spot, the lizard was nowhere to be found sadly. The morning swim was something we could all enjoy though!  Afterwards we drove back to Nizwa for lunch and supplies and drove into yet another habitat type we didn't see yet this trip, the sandy desert. Under the setting sun we explored the surroundings and saw many animal tracks in the sand. We prepared a simple meal over the portable stoves, set up our camp and almost the entire team went into the desert to look for animals. We immediately saw dozens of Cheesman's Gerbils (Gerbillus cheesmani) and scorpions such as Shield-tailed Scorpions (Apistobuthus pterygocercus). We also saw geckos such as Dune Sand Gecko (Stenodactylus doriae) and Sharqiyah Sand Gecko (Trigonodactylus sharqiyahensis), but the highlight for everybody was the Arabian Sand Boa (Eryx jayakari) I found crawling in a small bush. Very nice to also find both Omani reptiles named after Indian surgeon and naturalist Atmaram Jayakar (1844-1911) on the same day.  

4th of November 2024

With the sun slowly rising above the sand dunes, we searched for diurnal lizards, but there wasn't much activity yet. Sadly our schedule didn't allow for a more thorough search, as we had a boat to catch from the harbour in Seeb. From one impressive ecosystem into another and within hours we were navigating towards the Al Diymaniyat Islands over the open ocean. This was the best possible ending to our trip. We all enjoyed lounging on the boat, snorkeling over the coral reefs and seeing many fish such as Sohal Surgeonfish (Acanthurus sohal), Arabian Butterfly Fish (Chaetodon melapterus), Broomtail Wrasse (Cheilinus lunulatus), Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasse (Labroides dimidiatus), Bluespotted Cornetfish (Fistularia commersonii), Arabian Picassofish (Rhinecanthus assasi), Arabian Trunkfish (Ostracion cyanurus), Moorish Idol (Zanclus cornutus) and even a very shy Blacktip Reef Shark (Carcharhinus melanopterus). The stars of the show however, were large groups of Green Sea Turtles (Chelonia mydas) which were not shy and swimming all around us. Only some dolphins could have made this experience better! At a stone's throw away from the harbour we had a large villa all to ourselves where we could plunge in the swimming pool, have a shower and a warm meal and just relaxed in the evening. Together with Tijmen, Willem and Luc I had a small stroll in the vicinity. The area was very urbanized, but we had a very tasty chocolate milkshake in a city park. We even found a final addition to the specieslist there and saw many Rough Bent-toed Geckos (Cyrtopodion scabrum).

Further reading

Species

Dhofar Toad (Duttaphrynus dhufarensis)

Arabian Toad (Sclerophrys arabica)

Green Sea Turtle (Chelonia mydas)

Hadramaut Agama (Acanthocercus adramitanus)

Oriental Garden Lizard (Calotes versicolor)

Dhofar Rock Agama (Pseudotrapelus dhofarensis)

Egyptian Spiny-tailed Lizard (Uromastyx aegyptia ssp. microlepis)

Yemeni Spiny-tailed Lizard (Uromastyx benti)

Arabian Chameleon (Chamaeleo arabicus)

Rough Bent-toed Gecko (Cyrtopodion scabrum)

Al-Kiyumi's Gecko (Hemidactylus alkiyumii)

Yellow-bellied House Gecko (Hemidactylus flaviviridis)

Ghost Gecko (Hemidactylus lemurinus)

Dhofar Coastal Gecko (Hemidactylus paucituberculatus)

Red Sea House Gecko (Hemidactylus robustus)

Dune Sand Gecko (Stenodactylus doriae)

Sharqiyah Sand Gecko (Trigonodactylus sharqiyahensis)

Flat-headed Leaf-toed Gecko (Asaccus platyrhynchus)

Dhofar Fan-footed Gecko (Ptyodactylus dhofarensis)

Orlov's Fan-footed Gecko (Ptyodactylus orlovi)

Carter's Rock Gecko (Pristurus carteri)

Guweira Semaphore Gecko (Pristurus guweirensis)

Rock Semaphore Gecko (Pristurus rupestris)

Masirah Fringe-toed Lizard (Acanthodactylus masirae)

Jayakar's Lizard (Omanosaura jayakari)

Short-necked Skink (Trachylepis brevicollis)

Tessellated Skink (Trachylepis tessellata)

Nurse's Blind Snake (Myriopholis nursii)

Arabian Burrowing Asp (Atractaspis andersonii)

Arabian Sand Boa (Eryx jayakari)

Wadi Racer (Platyceps rhodorachis)

Puff Adder (Bitis arietans)

Many thanks to Thomas Bader, Sergé Bogaerts, David Broek, Robin Gloor, Dan Lay & Matt Wilson.